Setting up a Hamshack Hotline Trunk in 3CX PBX

I have a 3CX PBX at home I use for a few things, and I also have a Cisco SPA504g that I use with HamShack Hotline.

I have a second extension setup on the SPA504g for my 3CX system, but I figured it might be a good idea to get the 3CX system to register to HH as a trunk as well! That way I can also make and receive HH calls from my phone and the amazing 3CX application.

I applied for a new trunk line via the HH Support Center, and received it the following morning.

They provided me with three pieces of information;
User: 30027 – This is the extension number assigned to my trunk (Try calling me!)
Password: aprettygoodpasswordwashere
IAX Host:

The IAX Host is the SIP server, and should accept a SIP Register on port 5060 with the authentication info above.

In the 3CX Management Console, I went to Trunks and clicked Add SIP Trunk.

I selected Generic as the country, and Generic VoIP Provider as the provider.
The Main Trunk Number should be the extension provided above.

I filled out the info where it needs to go, and set the destination for calls to the main trunk number to go straight to my extension, so Ill get them on my mobile or PC.

This SHOULD be all that’s required!
But alas, I am not that lucky today.

The trunk is failing to register.
If we switch over to the 3CX Event Log, we can see the failed registration attempt.

Its worth noting here, that while the log shows the user as, this is merely a graphical confusion, as 10001 is the internal number assigned to the trunk by 3CX, and not the actual user that it attempts to register with. 3CX Uses the SIP User ID we entered above to register, but I am still receiving a 403 Forbidden from the (which currently resolves to server.

I thought this may be happening due to the second connection I already have from this address, the Cisco SPA504g handset, so I connected to my Unifi Controller and shutdown the PoE to the port the phone is connected to.

Once the phone went offline I tried registering again through 3CX, and this time it gives an error that the service is not available…

I have reached out to the HHOPS team to see if there is any issues currently with the server, and will update my post here when I hear back, or if I otherwise resolve the issue.


I heard back from HHOPS!

They gave a few suggestions, and I was able to get things up and running!

Rather than Generic SIP Provider I have used Asterisk as the type, and rather than 5060 for the port, I have used 4569.
It is now successfully registered and appears to be working!

To finalise, I have also setup an Outbound Rule for Hamshack Hotline, where calls to numbers with a length of 5 digits get routed out the new Hamshack Hotline trunk.

Cheap dummy load

Dummy loads are very simple devices, they are a resistor, with 50ohm impedance, and a heatsink to dissipate heat.

I picked up a 50w heatsink from rs components, for $4.80 delivered overnight.

Arrived this morning, attach an SO239 and good to go.

For short bursts of power I’ll be using this for, <5-25w while tuning down commercial radios to legal limit it should do.

But I’ll need to add a heatsink for anything more or anything sustained.

Designing an even cheaper isolated digital interface for amateur radios

A few months ago, the ACMA made changes to the amateur LCD that allowed foundation class licensees to operate digital modes.

Excited to get into this in the new year, I begun looking into digital interfaces for the radios I already have. There’s many different ways this can be done, from as simple as not using a cable and relying on microphones and speakers, creating a straight through cable from the PC mic input to the radio speaker output and visa versa, to expensive isolated interface boards custom made in the USA.

I wanted an isolated board, because I have enough trouble with interference and noise in my apartment already, so the first two were out (although I did make a straight through cable for my Baofeng UV-5R for SSTV on 2m/70cm).

So I turned to the expensive isolated interfaces.

There’s plenty to choose from l, with different feature levels and prices! From the $230USD RigBlaster, the $200AUD SignalLink USB, and even the cheapest of the bunch, the Easy-Digi coming in at $30-50AUD shipped with slow shipping…

Naturally being a cheap ass I wasn’t overly satisfied with these options..

Luckily though, the Easy-Digi, saved the day! It’s such a simple design, with a published schematic, that it’s not too hard to roll your own with a few changes!

I jumped into EasyEDA and learnt how to do a basic schematic, then designed the interface circuit for audio using two 600:600ohm isolation transformers, and a PTT circuit using a DB9 rs232 connector because it’s easy, although I plan to replace that with a USB-C connector and a ch340 rs232 IC in a later revision!

I used components that I either already have laying around, or can get easily from JayCar for the most part.

The connectors and transformers I ordered from China at about $4-5 for 10pcs each.

With the layout done, I generated a PCB, and moved components around into a rough layout I was happy with, and hit the autoroute button :^)

I forgot to label the PC side connectors for the first revision, but I imagine there will be plenty of other changes I make anyway.

I uploaded the gerbers to JLCPCB to produce a test run of the PCB, which I should have within 2 weeks with the cheap shipping :^)

So if everything goes according to plan, I cluding parts and PCB manufacturing for 10 boards, I’ll have spend about $30-35 total, and I should be able to sell some of the boards to friends for $5-10 each offsetting my costs even more !

Yaesu FT-1500m restoration

A few years ago I picked up a Yaesu FT-1500m 50w VHF transceiver for a small amount, it was in pretty bad shape when I got it so it was pretty cheap.

I ordered a new microphone right away but because the previous owner super glued the old one in, I was never able to replace it.

I had trouble finding exactly the correct 6p6c Jack to replace the ruined one too.

I checked many places online, many stores in Singapore sim Lim, and many in Tokyo akihabara, until I finally found one that appeared to be close enough to use!

The new one wasn’t a perfect fit, I had to shave the corner of it down a bit, and drill out a small part of the radio housing to accommodate it, as it sits much more inside the radio than the stock one, but the pinout and height of the jack itself work ok. They’re logically correct too, despite being upside down compared to the stock.

I removed the stock Jack by carefully cutting away i at it with flush cutters until there was just pins left, then I desoldered those one by one, and cleaned up with some braid.

Installed the new jack, but it had plastic PCB mount rather than metal mounts I could solder. I decided to add some copper wire for a little bit of extra mechanical support. I added some liquid electrical tape to attach the wire to the jack.

After that was all done, I was more or less finished with what I can do!

I replaced the manky old M5 bolts with clean new ones, and will give the unit a general cleanup!

Unfortunately the rubber buttons are beginning to disintegrate, so I’ll have to figure out something to do there.. I cannot locate a replacement for those :/

The volume potentiometer has seen better days but still functions perfectly. But I may replace it in the near future.

Lasercut Server Rack Blanking Panels

To my surprise, I cannot find any sort of blanking panel template for laser cutting on the internet. Considering how common laser cutters are becoming, I expected to find at least some… oh well, I have made my own and will share it with you here!

I threw this together in Illustrator and share with you three files, an AI, an SVG and a DXF for cutting or whatever you want.


1U and 2U Blanking Panels DXF

Edit: cut and tested some they fit well πŸ™‚

IKEA Server / Comms Cabinet


I have had for the last few years, a growing pile of electronics that I called my homelab. It looked a bit sad.

This was it recently…
This was back in 2017 πŸ˜­πŸ™ƒ

I decided recently that it really deserved some love, and it’s really very rewarding to put in a bit of effort for something that looks good.

So I started looking into ideas on how to clean it up.

Initially I was planning on getting either a 9u or 12u rack/cabinet, and just leaving it in the same place. But as much as I love my servers and gadgets, I don’t think a black metal box in the living room/ kitchen looks great to guests. So I figured I should try something that looks better.

An IKEA lack was off the table, as it’s much too large for something up against the wall in my opinion, so I browsed the website for a while until I came across the TRYSIL. It’s a chest of r draws, that extends a mere 40cm from front to back. Perfect for up against the wall! And at only $129, it was just $4.05 more expensive than a 9u rack.

So I ordered one and picked it up Friday night. Assembly was pretty straightforward, just follow the pictures as you would expect. But what I didn’t do was install the bottom two draws, I left that section completely open.

I purchased two metal strips for.the hardware for about $0.80 each, and laid the two draw fronts together about the correct spacing apart, and bolted them together using the metal strips.

I then measured out and attached two butt hinfes ($4.95 for the pair) to the new door and cabinet.

I had this wall-mount server rack thing left over from a previous intention to wall mount my servers in the garage, and flipping it on its side gave me a perfect 3u mounting space.

I used M5 bolts and some washers to secure it in place, and it’s not going ANYWHERE.

This fits really well, leaving a bit of space on either side for cable management and other things.

I then test fit a PowerPoint art he back and started on my way to cutting out a hole in the base to mount a pair of 200mm fans for airflow.

In Australia you can’t do mains voltage work without a license, so I called over a sparky friend do wire things up for me.

I went out to my local Jaycar to pickup a few things I would need, and while I was there I found a 4 Port USB outlet for only $15! I grabbed this and a mounting box for it as well, this will be useful for odd things like an esp8266 to monitor temperature and drive LEDs, and the Mi-Light wifi bridge.

Now that sparky mate has installed those for me I went back to working on cutting out my hole for the fans. I probably could have cut it out before assembly but I was in the mood to get things done in one day so I didn’t want to trek out to Robots and Dinosaurs with some wood to cut out using their tools!

I cut a hole on the upper left side for a cable feed hole for ethernet connectivity, but I’m thinking I’ll replace this with a 6 way Keystone plate to keep the cabinet modular. I want to move the nbn cable NTD into the roof, so that rather than an RG-6 cable to deal with I just have CAT6…

I also got an IEC socket installed on the back to be fed from the external UPS which is too large to fit inside, this also means it’s relatively simple to unplug and move should I have to do that.

Once I had the holes cut out to my satisfaction, keeping in mind that they won’t really be seen so I wasn’t too fussed, I used cable ties to hold the two 200mm fans together, and screwed them into the underside of the cabinet over the hole.

Oh I also attached the $2.95 magnetic latch you see here.

Once I had mounted and wired up my fans, it was time to start moving my network hardware over.

I started with the switch as it will serve as the shelf for the other hardware. (don’t worry it’s properly bolted in)

I then installed the power distribution bar, NTD and pfsense router. I blacked out the pfsense because it’s a surprise for another post soon.

I affixed the Mi-Light bridge and zigbee2mqtt devices using command Velcro, and screwed in a fan controller harvested from the same PC the fans came from.

I began to test fit the various power supplies inside, there’s a few because I’m using micro PC’s as servers… I’m considering consolidating the Synology units into a single 150w PSU though.

I test fit and began cabling everything in, I have ordered a brushed 1u panel to clean up the wiring a bit more but it will be a few weeks from china.

Once everything was in, I did a final test to make sure I was happy with the airflow and the path the air seems to be taking through the cabinet, which will improve after I install the brushed plate and a blank panel.

With ally tests done and happy, I hooked up the ups and turned on all the servers one after another. I monitored them as they came back online to ensure all VMs and services started correctly, and so far only Wireguard refuses to start! πŸ™

Good enough for me!

And with that the move was virtually complete!

I have since added some lights, and a DHT22 temp/humidity sensor inside to keep track of how it’s going, but temps so far seem very acceptable.

The 120mm fans bolted directly to the cabinet are audible so I would like to replace them with noctuas, mounted via rubber or foam dampeners.

Overall I’m super happy with how it turned out, everything fit perfectly, it was fun to work on and build, it looks so much better than an ominous pile of electronics next to the kitchen and dust will hopefully be a bit less an issue now!

Best of all, it looks nothing like a server cabinet!

A Smarter Smart TV

My TV at home features both Google TV through a Xiaomi Mi Box, and Kodi running on an old Chromebox. This alone is what most would call, a ‘smart tv’

However Is it really smart if you still have to turn it on? and change channel?
In some occasions, HDMI CEC can help here, as it is capable of turning the TV on and changing to the input it needs ! However for my use case, this doesnt work. and it is rarely able to turn OFF the TV.

Luckily, in one of my recent posts I covered how I added RS232 control to the TV. so actually changing inputs and power on and off are now discrete commands we have at our disposal!

Using some simple logic in Node-Red it was a simple case of checking which device changes to playing, and then switching the TV on, and changing over the input to match!

There is probably a more streamlined way to do this but this is what I have come up with:

It works like so;

First we have this state changed node that outputs true, if the device is not playing.

If it IS playing, it outputs a false, which triggers the ‘Turn on TV’ call service node.

followed by a wait until node, just to add a 1 second delay to allow the TV to startup.

and finally another call service node to actually change the input!

Meanwhile, if the TV state is anything OTHER than playing, it will first go to this wait until node, and wait 60 minutes in case it begins playing again (this gives time to choose the next video or show using a remote ! I will probably shorten this though)

finally followed by the turn off switch for the TV.

I also need to get around to renaming the entities of the switches used here, as they’re not very well named at present.

Ill include the flow below!

[{"id":"4e63a44b.f401bc","type":"server-state-changed","z":"e94d3e8b.2d81e","name":"When Kodi stops Playing","server":"33a2704d.0e654","version":1,"entityidfilter":"media_player.kodi_libreelec_local","entityidfiltertype":"exact","outputinitially":false,"state_type":"str","haltifstate":"playing","halt_if_type":"str","halt_if_compare":"is_not","outputs":2,"output_only_on_state_change":true,"x":290,"y":760,"wires":[["9a3def91.d13ae"],["432da1ba.4b195"]]},{"id":"432da1ba.4b195","type":"api-call-service","z":"e94d3e8b.2d81e","name":"Turn on TV","server":"33a2704d.0e654","version":"1","service_domain":"homeassistant","service":"turn_on","entityId":"switch.sharp_tv_rs232","data":"","dataType":"json","mergecontext":"","output_location":"","output_location_type":"none","mustacheAltTags":false,"x":850,"y":700,"wires":[["9be17d6c.92cdf"]]},{"id":"11a5db01.9c8e75","type":"api-call-service","z":"e94d3e8b.2d81e","name":"Turn off TV","server":"33a2704d.0e654","version":1,"service_domain":"homeassistant","service":"turn_on","entityId":"switch.turn_off","data":"","dataType":"json","mergecontext":"","output_location":"","output_location_type":"none","mustacheAltTags":false,"x":850,"y":780,"wires":[[]]},{"id":"9a3def91.d13ae","type":"ha-wait-until","z":"e94d3e8b.2d81e","name":"","server":"33a2704d.0e654","outputs":2,"entityId":"media_player.kodi_libreelec_local","property":"state","comparator":"is","value":"playing","valueType":"str","timeout":"60","timeoutUnits":"minutes","entityLocation":"","entityLocationType":"none","checkCurrentState":true,"blockInputOverrides":true,"x":620,"y":760,"wires":[["432da1ba.4b195"],["11a5db01.9c8e75"]]},{"id":"9f2ad7cf.baa538","type":"api-call-service","z":"e94d3e8b.2d81e","name":"Change Input","server":"33a2704d.0e654","version":1,"service_domain":"switch","service":"turn_on","entityId":"switch.displayport","data":"","dataType":"json","mergecontext":"","output_location":"","output_location_type":"none","mustacheAltTags":false,"x":1200,"y":680,"wires":[[]]},{"id":"9be17d6c.92cdf","type":"ha-wait-until","z":"e94d3e8b.2d81e","name":"","server":"33a2704d.0e654","outputs":2,"entityId":"switch.displayport_2","property":"state","comparator":"is","value":"on","valueType":"str","timeout":"1","timeoutUnits":"seconds","entityLocation":"","entityLocationType":"none","checkCurrentState":true,"blockInputOverrides":true,"x":1000,"y":680,"wires":[["9f2ad7cf.baa538"],["9f2ad7cf.baa538"]]},{"id":"33a2704d.0e654","type":"server","z":"","name":"Home Assistant [Lewys]","legacy":false,"hassio":true,"rejectUnauthorizedCerts":true,"ha_boolean":"y|yes|true|on|home|open","connectionDelay":true}]

Upgrading from ResinOS to Ubuntu

My Home Assistant / install was an old ResinOS image from the website running on an Intel NUC.

Occasionally I would have to reboot the machine, as it would loose network connectivity for an unknown reason (The machine was still connected, and the host OS, but Home Assistant could not connect out to the internet? as in, the logs were full of time outs and refused connections due to ‘max retries exceeded’

I wanted to migrate this over to a Ubuntu Docker install so that I had better control over the hardware and could do other tasks on the machine, and to hopefully repair the issue with connectivity.

I took a snapshot of through the web UI, copied it off as well as manually backed up the files, and then installed Ubuntu 18.04.3 onto the NUC.

I installed following the manual install directions on the website, and then the samba addon. Copied the file back into the correct folder and rebooted.
Once it was back up, I selected the snapshot and hit restore.

It took about half an hour to complete for some reason, but once it had, it was pretty much exactly how it was before I started.

There was a few things that required attention, for example Node-Red was not connecting. I didn’t do anything to it but restarting and it connected once more.
There was also problems with MariaDB that I couldn’t understand, it could not connect, but was listening and running fine? I ended up just removing this addon and reinstalling it, as it was pretty simple.

Once it was all up and running again, It seemed to be working fine. I setup Portainer manually and connected it to the local docker instance, and added my other docker endpoints to it.

All was good.

Until the next day. My alarm didnt go off in the morning, which was the first red flag, I tried opening Home Assistant to adjust my Air Conditioner and it would not load, I checked Portainer and the container was still running, so it should be working? Checking the logs it looks like its running but cannot connect to the internet again. This is similar but not exactly the same messages as previously. I restarted the Home Assistant container and the logs indicated it was having connectivity problems out to the internet, but this should not stop the Local UI from working on https://IP:8123 … yet it was? I had to leave for work at this point so I figured no biggie, ill fix it on lunch over VPN.

(update: the alarm didn’t go off because the MP3 it plays is hosted on the internet, I need to switch it over to a local MP3 to remove this internet dependency)

But heres where the plot thickens.

Just yesterday I was toying with settings on my OpenVPN Server with my buddy Tom while we were trying to figure out why DNS doesnt work for local clients when connected to VPN, and something we touched must have been wrong as now my VPN is playing up and apparently he is having internet troubles too.

The next day:

So it turns out I didn’t break anything, Telstra had messed up my account for some reason and after an hour talking to them they were able to revert their changes and fix it. Now everything’s back to normal!

Updating my last Arduino based ESP to ESPHome

I have most of my ESP based IoT devices running ESPHome by now, but there was one left that I hadn’t spent the time figuring out how to adapt.

That was the one that lives inside my wall, and opens the buildings door by shorting two contacts on the intercom system.

My requirements for this were backwards compatibility so that my scripts and automations that were setup to control the door via MQTT could still function, this way I can continue to operate as normal but with the addition of OTA updates and telemetry from the node thats hardest to reach!

The original code involved subscribing to a topic, and waiting for a payload, then turning the relay on and then off again, for a momentary press.

#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>
#include <PubSubClient.h>

#define CLIENT_ID "buildingdoor-singlerelay"

#define RELAY_PIN 0

// Update these with values suitable for your network.
const char* ssid = "WiFiSSID";
const char* password = "WiFiPassword";
const char* mqtt_server = "MQTTServerIP";

WiFiClient espClient;
PubSubClient client(espClient);
long lastMsg = 0;

void setup()
  client.setServer(mqtt_server, 1883);
  digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH);
  pinMode(D3, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(D1, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(D1, LOW);

void setup_wifi() {
  // We start by connecting to a WiFi network
  Serial.print("Connecting to ");
  Serial.println(ssid); //We don't want the ESP to act as an AP
  WiFi.begin(ssid, password);

  while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) 
  Serial.println("WiFi connected");
  Serial.println("IP address: ");

void callback(char* topic, byte* payload, unsigned int length) {
  Serial.print("Message arrived [");
  Serial.print("] ");
  for (int i = 0; i < length; i++) {

  // Switch on the LED if an 1 was received as first character
  if ((char)payload[0] == '1') {
    client.publish("building/door/relay", "1");
    digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, LOW);
    digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH);
  }  } else {
    digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH);
    client.publish("building/door/relay", "0");


void reconnect() {
  // Loop until we're reconnected
  digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW);
  while (!client.connected()) {
    Serial.print("Attempting MQTT connection...");
    // Attempt to connect
    if (client.connect(CLIENT_ID)) {
      digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH);
    } else {
      Serial.print("failed, rc=");
      Serial.println(" try again in 5 seconds");
      // Wait 5 seconds before retrying

void loop()
  if (!client.connected()) {

The new ESPHome code, does this, in addition to supporting the Home Assistant API and reporting back some values such as the WiFi Signal Strength!

  name: buildingdoor
  platform: ESP8266
  board: esp01_1m

  ssid: 'WiFiSSID'
  password: 'WiFiPassword'
  domain: .local
  fast_connect: true
    static_ip: 172.16.0.XX
  broker: 172.16.0.XX
  username: MQTTUsername
#  password: MyMQTTPassword
    topic: building/door/relay/set
      - switch.turn_on: building_door_switch

# Enable logging


  - platform: gpio
      number: 0
      inverted: yes
    icon: "mdi:office-building"
    name: "Building Door Open Switch"
    id: building_door_switch
    retain: false
    discovery: false
      topic: building/door/status
      payload_available: online
      payload_not_available: offline
    state_topic: building/door/relay
    command_topic: building/door/relay/set
    - logger.log: "Building Door Relay Activated!"
    - delay: 0.2s
    - switch.turn_off: building_door_switch
    - logger.log: "Building Door Relay Deactivated!"

  - platform: wifi_signal
    name: "Building Door WiFi Signal"
    update_interval: 60s
  - platform: wifi_info
      name: Building Door ESP IP Address
      name: Building Door ESP Connected SSID
      name: Building Door ESP Connected BSSID

I first connected it externally next to the wall, and listened to hear that they indeed, both fired when they were supposed to, and once confirmed, I opened up the wall, switched out the ESP-01S modules and closed it all back up!

Controlling an RS232 Device over UART / WiFi

I recently had the need to connect part of my AV setup to my Home Assistant instance, however to do so I had two options, using the LAN control option built into the device, or via an RS232 serial port.

Naturally I attempted to use the LAN control part first, which involves opening a TCP socket to port 10008 of the device.
But I ran into problems as the connection kept wanting a user to login, even though there was no user account, and I was unable to figure out how to pass the login prompt and send commands automatically.

So I went to JayCar and grabbed one of these:

Basically, it converts a TTL level signal to RS232 level signals.
I hooked it up to a Wemos D1 Mini, on the ESP, you want to use one of the HARDWARE UART pins, so for me, I went with D4, which is GPIO2 / TXD1.

My equipment had a 3.5mm socket for RS232 control, the manual had a pinout for DB9 to 3.5 so that was a simple cable to make, but your equipment might have something else.

Code wise, this is what ive settled on using and has been working MOSTLY well:

  name: sharptv
  platform: ESP8266
  board: d1_mini

  ssid: '********'
  password: '********'


# Enable logging


  username: rs232
  password: ********

  baud_rate: 38400
  tx_pin: D4

  - platform: uart
    name: "Power On"
    data: [0x50, 0x4F, 0x57, 0x52, 0x20, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x0D, 0x0A]
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/state
          payload: "ON"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "Power Off"
    data: [0x50, 0x4F, 0x57, 0x52, 0x20, 0x20, 0x20, 0x30, 0x0D, 0x0A]
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/state
          payload: "OFF"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "HDMI 1"
    data: [0x49, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x30, 0x0D, 0x0A]
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/input
          payload: "HDMI1"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "HDMI 2"
    data: [0x49, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x33, 0x0D, 0x0A]
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/input
          payload: "HDMI2"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "HDMI 3"
    data: [0x49, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x38, 0x0D, 0x0A]
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/input
          payload: "HDMI3"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "DISPLAYPORT"
    data: [0x49, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x34, 0x0D, 0x0A]
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/input
          payload: "DISPLAYPORT" 
          retain: true

I say mostly, because when the ESP reboots, it sticks some data out of the pin, which the equipment holds in its buffer. So if the ESP has just reboot, and I try and send a command, the unit wont respond, as it gets more data than it thought. πŸ™‚

This can be fixed by including a line break and carriage return at the START of the command, to clear the buffer, or by sending the command twice. but i havent done that yet because i … havent got around to it… 

Ill also mention, the TX/RX might be wrong on the Chinese board because ive seen a few different photos, if it doesnt work on TX try RX :^)

Ive ordered a handful of these to test making it smaller (think a cable with a bulge in the middle)