ESP8266 – ParaBlog

IKEA Server / Comms Cabinet

Hello!

I have had for the last few years, a growing pile of electronics that I called my homelab. It looked a bit sad.

I decided recently that it really deserved some love, and it’s really very rewarding to put in a bit of effort for something that looks good.

So I started looking into ideas on how to clean it up.

Initially I was planning on getting either a 9u or 12u rack/cabinet, and just leaving it in the same place. But as much as I love my servers and gadgets, I don’t think a black metal box in the living room/ kitchen looks great to guests. So I figured I should try something that looks better.

An IKEA lack was off the table, as it’s much too large for something up against the wall in my opinion, so I browsed the website for a while until I came across the TRYSIL. It’s a chest of r draws, that extends a mere 40cm from front to back. Perfect for up against the wall! And at only $129, it was just $4.05 more expensive than a 9u rack.

So I ordered one and picked it up Friday night. Assembly was pretty straightforward, just follow the pictures as you would expect. But what I didn’t do was install the bottom two draws, I left that section completely open.

I purchased two metal strips for.the hardware for about $0.80 each, and laid the two draw fronts together about the correct spacing apart, and bolted them together using the metal strips.

I then measured out and attached two butt hinfes ($4.95 for the pair) to the new door and cabinet.

I had this wall-mount server rack thing left over from a previous intention to wall mount my servers in the garage, and flipping it on its side gave me a perfect 3u mounting space.

I used M5 bolts and some washers to secure it in place, and it’s not going ANYWHERE.

This fits really well, leaving a bit of space on either side for cable management and other things.

I then test fit a PowerPoint art he back and started on my way to cutting out a hole in the base to mount a pair of 200mm fans for airflow.

In Australia you can’t do mains voltage work without a license, so I called over a sparky friend do wire things up for me.

I went out to my local Jaycar to pickup a few things I would need, and while I was there I found a 4 Port USB outlet for only $15! I grabbed this and a mounting box for it as well, this will be useful for odd things like an esp8266 to monitor temperature and drive LEDs, and the Mi-Light wifi bridge.

Now that sparky mate has installed those for me I went back to working on cutting out my hole for the fans. I probably could have cut it out before assembly but I was in the mood to get things done in one day so I didn’t want to trek out to Robots and Dinosaurs with some wood to cut out using their tools!

I cut a hole on the upper left side for a cable feed hole for ethernet connectivity, but I’m thinking I’ll replace this with a 6 way Keystone plate to keep the cabinet modular. I want to move the nbn cable NTD into the roof, so that rather than an RG-6 cable to deal with I just have CAT6…

I also got an IEC socket installed on the back to be fed from the external UPS which is too large to fit inside, this also means it’s relatively simple to unplug and move should I have to do that.

Once I had the holes cut out to my satisfaction, keeping in mind that they won’t really be seen so I wasn’t too fussed, I used cable ties to hold the two 200mm fans together, and screwed them into the underside of the cabinet over the hole.

Oh I also attached the $2.95 magnetic latch you see here.

Once I had mounted and wired up my fans, it was time to start moving my network hardware over.

I started with the switch as it will serve as the shelf for the other hardware. (don’t worry it’s properly bolted in)

I then installed the power distribution bar, NTD and pfsense router. I blacked out the pfsense because it’s a surprise for another post soon.

I affixed the Mi-Light bridge and zigbee2mqtt devices using command Velcro, and screwed in a fan controller harvested from the same PC the fans came from.

I began to test fit the various power supplies inside, there’s a few because I’m using micro PC’s as servers… I’m considering consolidating the Synology units into a single 150w PSU though.

I test fit and began cabling everything in, I have ordered a brushed 1u panel to clean up the wiring a bit more but it will be a few weeks from china.

Once everything was in, I did a final test to make sure I was happy with the airflow and the path the air seems to be taking through the cabinet, which will improve after I install the brushed plate and a blank panel.

With ally tests done and happy, I hooked up the ups and turned on all the servers one after another. I monitored them as they came back online to ensure all VMs and services started correctly, and so far only Wireguard refuses to start! 🙁

Good enough for me!

And with that the move was virtually complete!

I have since added some lights, and a DHT22 temp/humidity sensor inside to keep track of how it’s going, but temps so far seem very acceptable.

The 120mm fans bolted directly to the cabinet are audible so I would like to replace them with noctuas, mounted via rubber or foam dampeners.

Overall I’m super happy with how it turned out, everything fit perfectly, it was fun to work on and build, it looks so much better than an ominous pile of electronics next to the kitchen and dust will hopefully be a bit less an issue now!

Best of all, it looks nothing like a server cabinet!

Updating my last Arduino based ESP to ESPHome

I have most of my ESP based IoT devices running ESPHome by now, but there was one left that I hadn’t spent the time figuring out how to adapt.

That was the one that lives inside my wall, and opens the buildings door by shorting two contacts on the intercom system.

My requirements for this were backwards compatibility so that my scripts and automations that were setup to control the door via MQTT could still function, this way I can continue to operate as normal but with the addition of OTA updates and telemetry from the node thats hardest to reach!

The original code involved subscribing to a topic, and waiting for a payload, then turning the relay on and then off again, for a momentary press.

#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>
#include <PubSubClient.h>

#define CLIENT_ID "buildingdoor-singlerelay"

#define RELAY_PIN 0


// Update these with values suitable for your network.
const char* ssid = "WiFiSSID";
const char* password = "WiFiPassword";
const char* mqtt_server = "MQTTServerIP";

WiFiClient espClient;
PubSubClient client(espClient);
long lastMsg = 0;

void setup()
{
  pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(RELAY_PIN, OUTPUT);
  Serial.begin(115200);
  setup_wifi(); 
  client.setServer(mqtt_server, 1883);
  client.setCallback(callback);
  digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH);
  pinMode(D3, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(D1, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(D1, LOW);
}

void setup_wifi() {
  delay(10);
  // We start by connecting to a WiFi network
  Serial.println();
  Serial.print("Connecting to ");
  Serial.println(ssid); //We don't want the ESP to act as an AP
  WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA);
  WiFi.begin(ssid, password);

  while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) 
  {
    delay(500);
    Serial.print(".");
  }
  Serial.println("");
  Serial.println("WiFi connected");
  Serial.println("IP address: ");
  Serial.println(WiFi.localIP());
}

void callback(char* topic, byte* payload, unsigned int length) {
  Serial.print("Message arrived [");
  Serial.print(topic);
  Serial.print("] ");
  for (int i = 0; i < length; i++) {
    Serial.print((char)payload[i]);
  }
  Serial.println();

  // Switch on the LED if an 1 was received as first character
  if ((char)payload[0] == '1') {
    client.publish("building/door/relay", "1");
    delay(100);
    digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, LOW);
    delay(200);
    digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH);
  }  } else {
    digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH);
    delay(100);
    client.publish("building/door/relay", "0");
  }

}

void reconnect() {
  // Loop until we're reconnected
  digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW);
  while (!client.connected()) {
    Serial.print("Attempting MQTT connection...");
    // Attempt to connect
    if (client.connect(CLIENT_ID)) {
      Serial.println("connected");
      client.subscribe("building/door/relay/set");
      digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH);
    } else {
      Serial.print("failed, rc=");
      Serial.print(client.state());
      Serial.println(" try again in 5 seconds");
      // Wait 5 seconds before retrying
      delay(5000);
    }
  }
}

void loop()
{
  if (!client.connected()) {
    reconnect();
  }
  client.loop();
}

The new ESPHome code, does this, in addition to supporting the Home Assistant API and reporting back some values such as the WiFi Signal Strength!

esphome:
  name: buildingdoor
  platform: ESP8266
  board: esp01_1m

wifi:
  ssid: 'WiFiSSID'
  password: 'WiFiPassword'
  domain: .local
  fast_connect: true
  manual_ip:
    static_ip: 172.16.0.XX
    gateway: 172.16.0.1
    subnet: 255.255.255.0
mqtt:
  broker: 172.16.0.XX
  username: MQTTUsername
#  password: MyMQTTPassword
  on_message:
    topic: building/door/relay/set
    then:
      - switch.turn_on: building_door_switch
api:

# Enable logging
logger:

ota:

switch:
  - platform: gpio
    pin:
      number: 0
      inverted: yes
    icon: "mdi:office-building"
    name: "Building Door Open Switch"
    id: building_door_switch
    retain: false
    discovery: false
    availability:
      topic: building/door/status
      payload_available: online
      payload_not_available: offline
    state_topic: building/door/relay
    command_topic: building/door/relay/set
    on_turn_on:
    - logger.log: "Building Door Relay Activated!"
    - delay: 0.2s
    - switch.turn_off: building_door_switch
    on_turn_off:
    - logger.log: "Building Door Relay Deactivated!"

sensor:
  - platform: wifi_signal
    name: "Building Door WiFi Signal"
    update_interval: 60s
text_sensor:
  - platform: wifi_info
    ip_address:
      name: Building Door ESP IP Address
    ssid:
      name: Building Door ESP Connected SSID
    bssid:
      name: Building Door ESP Connected BSSID

I first connected it externally next to the wall, and listened to hear that they indeed, both fired when they were supposed to, and once confirmed, I opened up the wall, switched out the ESP-01S modules and closed it all back up!

Controlling an RS232 Device over UART / WiFi

I recently had the need to connect part of my AV setup to my Home Assistant instance, however to do so I had two options, using the LAN control option built into the device, or via an RS232 serial port.

Naturally I attempted to use the LAN control part first, which involves opening a TCP socket to port 10008 of the device.
But I ran into problems as the connection kept wanting a user to login, even though there was no user account, and I was unable to figure out how to pass the login prompt and send commands automatically.

So I went to JayCar and grabbed one of these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32722395554.html

Basically, it converts a TTL level signal to RS232 level signals.
I hooked it up to a Wemos D1 Mini, on the ESP, you want to use one of the HARDWARE UART pins, so for me, I went with D4, which is GPIO2 / TXD1.

My equipment had a 3.5mm socket for RS232 control, the manual had a pinout for DB9 to 3.5 so that was a simple cable to make, but your equipment might have something else.

Code wise, this is what ive settled on using and has been working MOSTLY well:

esphome:
  name: sharptv
  platform: ESP8266
  board: d1_mini

wifi:
  ssid: '********'
  password: '********'

api:

# Enable logging
logger:

ota:

mqtt:
  broker: 172.16.0.60
  username: rs232
  password: ********

uart:
  baud_rate: 38400
  tx_pin: D4

switch:
  - platform: uart
    name: "Power On"
    data: [0x50, 0x4F, 0x57, 0x52, 0x20, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x0D, 0x0A]
    on_turn_on:
      then:
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/state
          payload: "ON"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "Power Off"
    data: [0x50, 0x4F, 0x57, 0x52, 0x20, 0x20, 0x20, 0x30, 0x0D, 0x0A]
    on_turn_on:
      then:
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/state
          payload: "OFF"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "HDMI 1"
    data: [0x49, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x30, 0x0D, 0x0A]
    on_turn_on:
      then:
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/input
          payload: "HDMI1"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "HDMI 2"
    data: [0x49, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x33, 0x0D, 0x0A]
    on_turn_on:
      then:
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/input
          payload: "HDMI2"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "HDMI 3"
    data: [0x49, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x38, 0x0D, 0x0A]
    on_turn_on:
      then:
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/input
          payload: "HDMI3"
          retain: true

  - platform: uart
    name: "DISPLAYPORT"
    data: [0x49, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x20, 0x20, 0x31, 0x34, 0x0D, 0x0A]
    on_turn_on:
      then:
      - mqtt.publish:
          topic: esphome/rs232/sharp/input
          payload: "DISPLAYPORT" 
          retain: true

I say mostly, because when the ESP reboots, it sticks some data out of the pin, which the equipment holds in its buffer. So if the ESP has just reboot, and I try and send a command, the unit wont respond, as it gets more data than it thought. 🙂

This can be fixed by including a line break and carriage return at the START of the command, to clear the buffer, or by sending the command twice. but i havent done that yet because i … havent got around to it…

Ill also mention, the TX/RX might be wrong on the Chinese board because ive seen a few different photos, if it doesnt work on TX try RX :^)

Ive ordered a handful of these to test making it smaller (think a cable with a bulge in the middle)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32834977750.html

Vivid 2018 LED IoT Apparel !

Hello!

Continuing with the tradition of creating something beautiful and covered in LED lights, this year we have something special!

Previously, we had the LED Jacket with Tearschu, and the LED Dress with Naifel. Taking inspiration from these, and solving a lot of the problems I faced with them, I bring the latest iteration of light up fun.

This year, I have taken a pair of high heel boots, and an umbrella from Daiso, added plenty of pretty lights, and of course, this year marks the first year the entire project is connected to the internet.

The project was built using mostly the same core components for each item.

The shoes each have:

Lithium Ion Battery (1000mAh)
LiIon Charge / Boost circuit MP2636
WeMos D1 Mini
A random switch for power
A strip of WS2812 LEDs

The umbrella is similar, except instead of the MP2636 boost circuit and 3.7v Lithium battery, I used a 3s LiPo battery, and a 5v step down regulator capable of high current.

The physical build was pretty straight forward, hook up everything how you please, battery to boost/charge, from there to the WeMos / LEDs, and then route the wires how you please. For LED placement on the shoes, I went with up along the front as I feel this will look the best having the light cover the most area, and for the umbrella I ran the lights down the spokes of the umbrella.

Unfortunately with my design you cant really CLOSE the umbrella anymore but as this is just for Vivid I am not too fussed 🙂

To attach the LEDs to the umbrella I initially tried to use hot glue, but it was actually melting through the umbrella, and the parts that didn’t, did not hold very well, so I ended up using clear packing tape, as it does not seem to get in the way of anything and is barely noticeable!

The LEDs here are hooked up in parallel with each other, so each spoke on the umbrella will be the same.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Once it is all made up physically, we can move on to the code.

I was looking into using the McLighting project for control of these, as it has both an internal web interface as well as support for things like MQTT, but I could not get it to work reliably, and it didn’t support running in AP mode, only client mode, which was a big turn off for me.

So what I ended up using was the JSON LED code from BRUH Automation, because I use this for other things at home and it works pretty reliably.

One thing to note here, for my LEDs I had to add the following two lines of code, BEFORE including the libraries, to prevent flickering of the strip. (not sure why this works?)

#define FASTLED_INTERRUPT_RETRY_COUNT 0
#define FASTLED_ALLOW_INTERRUPTS 0

(at the verryy top of the sketch)

Now my initial plan included taking a small portable router, and a Raspberry Pi 3 out with me to vivid, running a local MQTT server on a local network, with the Pi running Home Assistant (Hass.IO) all locally so I could connect to it to control things. However I ran into many problems attempting to do this, I am not sure if its because I don’t know how to properly setup static IP’s in resin, or just because it hates me, but I kept not being able to connect or it wouldn’t respond to my commands, it just wasn’t working great.

One day though, my good friend Mark came over and we needed a project to work on, so what we set up was a private mosquitto MQTT broker, that requires authentication, running in Docker on a Ubuntu Server 18.04 LTS install!

What this meant, was I now had a secure way of connecting a remote node to my Home Assistant running back home.

I went right ahead and adjusted the code on the three items for the new server, forwarded the ports in my router, added the config to my production Home Assistant server, and hey presto, was I glad to see, everything JUST WORKED.

I made a view in Home Assistant and threw all the entities into it, and here’s how that looks:

So as you can see, we can control both shoes together, each individually, the umbrella on its own, or everything as a group!

We also can change the animation speed of the various effects.

I will be heading out to vivid to shoot a small video and some photos with this, with my good friend Tsugumi modelling it for me, on the 9th of June 2018 from about 6PM onward, Not sure if I will be at Circular Quay or Darling Harbor yet, keep your eye on my Instagram to find out! 😉

Thanks for reading!!!

ESP8266 Servo Control

I wanted to control a Servo using the Blynk library form an ESP8266,

So I hooked up a TowerPro SG-5010 servo to my ESP8266 devkit 1.0 thing, uploaded the servo sweep test code to see if it works, and IT WORKED!
Until the magic smoke came out…

It looks like ive fried my dev board goddamnit, maybe i shouldnt have pulled 5v from the VIN pin on the USB TTL adapter….. D:

goddamnitO:nGRLIKJRSNKLJB

Update:

OK!

With a new dev board, a v0.9 one, and an external 5v power source we have done away with the magic smoke!
Ill upload the Blynk sketch and see how we go.

hugometer

starting pitch

hugometer

an led bar graph, an arduino, and a bluetooth module. (RTC module too?)

the arduino scans for a bluetooth mac address (the mac of the phone belonging to the person the cuddleometer will respond to)

it will measure the time it is within proximity of that mac address and proportionately raise and lower the bar graph based on time since it sees the mac and time since is SAW the mac.

this allows it to “recharge” when you are with your significant other, and to “discharge” when you are away for them.

once the graph gets low, an additional led could flash indicating dangerously low cuddle gauge levels. and requesting a recharge.

this allows couples to keep track of the cuddle levels and ensure they always stay at a safe level.

additional thoughts

-gsm module to allow for e-cuddles
-wifi to allow proximity based cuddles / pausing cuddle drain when at home
-analog meter support for base station cuddle-o-meter
-a decided upon name
-a add on device that can be activated when a physical hug is engaged that speeds up the recharge process significantly

hardware

gsm – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251728140941
mcu – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/371535922801
bar – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151775473664
led – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171371213386
wifi – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161849472764
btle – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191736126745
batt – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191547561905
usb – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172143472382
rtc – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131523900632

Neopixels, ESP8266, NodeMCU and Arduino IDE

Hello everyone!

Another update on the ESP8266!

Recently, an Arduino compatible IDE was released for the ESP and I’m super keen to try it out. I’ll download it later today and give it a go, ideally I want the adafruit neopixel library to work as then I can connect my coaster to the internet!
More on that in a minute.

Yesterday two things arrived in the post, my 16 neopixel ring, and my NodeMCU dev board.

Both very exciting!
Maybe I can combine the two? 😉

The dev board is because ive had difficulty flashing the ESP chips in the past so I was hoping to have better luck with a breakout board with inbuilt USB TTL and a flash button. I did! It flashed the latest NodeMCU firmware right away!

Node MCU is an alternate firmware for the ESP that has a runtime for Lua 5.1.4 inbuilt! So this is the excuse I’ve needed to learn a bit of lua!

I’ll also be using this later with the Arduino IDE and I’ll make up an image for cross referencing pins.

The neopixel ring is to be used in my ongoing quest for the most amazing coaster ever.

It will make my drink disco!

I’ve had a prototype in the past using a single RGB LED, then another using a disc of them, and this one is a ring, but they’re addressable!

What I’m hoping to get is a sort of rainbow flowing effect happening.

Ive got the code at a good starting point, for effect testing.
All I did was modify the example sketch that goes through a bunch of possible modes 😀

I’m driving it from a digispark board, and in the final build it will use a 3.7v lipo for power.

The LED ring does seem extremely bright, and gets a little hot during normal operation so I better look at dimming the LEDs as I only need enough light to light up my drink! Not the room Hahaha

There’s a few different sized ones too. The one with 16 and the one with 60 LEDs cost the same! D: sadly I don’t need that many though it’s far too big for my purpose hahaa

Maybe I can find a use for 60… Hehehhhh..
Oh and they come in strips too and individual of course! And boards… THERES LOTS OF CHOICES OK?

Anyway,

That’s all for now, I’ll keep y’all posted!

Bonus: it sticks to the wall of the train lol

EasyIoT DS18B20 Temperature Sensor – ESP8266

I needed a temperature node, but I didn’t have a DHT22 temp/humidity sensor!?

So I modified the example sketch for the DHT to use a DS18B20 Digital Temperature Sensor instead!

It works great!

The sensor is connected as shown here:

http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ds18b20-arduino

Heres the code:

DS18B20 Digital Sensor Node Sketch for EasyIoT Server
Modified by Lewys Martin <l@lewys.eu>
See: blog.lewys.eu for details

Original Code:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

V1.0 – first version

Created by Igor Jarc <igor.jarc1@gmail.com>
See http://iot-playground.com for details
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or
modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License
version 2 as published by the Free Software Foundation.
*/
#include <Esp8266EasyIoT.h>
#include <SoftwareSerial.h>
#include <DallasTemperature.h>
#include <OneWire.h>

#define CHILD_ID_TEMP 1
#define SENSOR_DIGITAL_PIN 2
Esp8266EasyIoT esp;

SoftwareSerial serialEsp(10, 11);

OneWire oneWire(SENSOR_DIGITAL_PIN);
DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire);

float lastTemp;

Esp8266EasyIoTMsg msgTemp(CHILD_ID_TEMP, V_TEMP);
void setup()
{
serialEsp.begin(9600);
Serial.begin(115200);

Serial.println(“EasyIoTEsp init”);
esp.begin(NULL, 3, &serialEsp, &Serial);
//esp.begin(NULL, &serialEsp);
esp.present(CHILD_ID_TEMP, S_TEMP);

sensors.begin();
}

void loop()
{
while(!esp.process());

sensors.requestTemperatures();
float temperature = (sensors.getTempCByIndex(0));
if (isnan(temperature)) {
Serial.println(“Failed reading temperature from sensor”);
}
else if (temperature != lastTemp)
{
lastTemp = temperature;
esp.send(msgTemp.set(temperature, 1));
Serial.print(“T: “);
Serial.println(temperature);
}
}

And some pictures:

ESP ARDUINO PERFBOARD THING

I actually managed to produce something that is NEAT

and well laid out (in my opinion)

Parts:

• Arduino Nano
• ESP-01
• 5-3v Level Shifter
• Perfboard
• Bunch of headers
• Some wire
• Soldering Iron + 0.3mm Solder
• Dremel to clean things and cut things and stuff

As you can see in the photos:

The board as a whole:

The board with components removed:

The underside of the board:

Cleaned edges with Dremel:

The things I have to add still:

Also, as you can see, theres a notch missing from the Arduino near the ICSP pins, I used my Dremel to grind that away (theres no traces there as far as i can tell) so that the ESP module fits so perfectly there and the whole package fits inside the dimensions of the perf board 😀

This node has been added to my EasyIoT Server as a secondary relay node for the time being, but I want to get my hands on a DHT22 to add a temp/humidity sensor to my bedroom 😀

Then I can start expanding to other rooms in the house! MWAHAHAA

MY BEDROOM LIGHT IS NOW CONNECTED TO WIFI

Using a full size Arduino Uno modified to 3.3v, and that weird shield I built, modified to software serial pins 10 and 11, and also to add a power input of 5v that gets regulated to 3.3v on both the shield for the ESP8266, and the arduino for… itself?

It connects to a Raspberry Pi running the latest version of Raspbian and EasyIoT Server, I figured out their API without even a mention of there BEING ONE ON THEIR WEBSITE (they don’t mention it anywhere but i noticed a mention of it in the console log and figured it out)

The ESP8266 01 type connects to the main WiFi, then to the server, from then I can browse to the IP of the server and theres a beautiful interface 😀

The EasyIoT server also supports the RasPi GPIO and the MySensors stuff, so Im gonna use that for things like doors, and temp/humidity sensors

Photos will come soonish: